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Mold Design Competetion

A guy pmme ask the rules and validity of part as moldable or functional,


Man I had designed and manufactured mold for this part and it is productive, this part is called coil side plate, installed in split type Air conditioner (Evaporator/indoor Unit) to hold coil in its shape. under cuts are to grip the pipe.


If any designer learn a hard to do job, what prize could be greater then success?? I am putting competetion here to activate guys and prepare all of us for design competetion and nothing else, if any one dont want to participate, its all up to him and there is no force to participate.


Dont think anybody in this world is perfect, some times we dont have enough knowledge or talent, but it doesnt means that the thing we cant understand is not exists or wrong!! Am I wrong??


Here is a pic of mold Punch Side


View attachment 2176
 
Zaki,<?:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:eek:ffice:eek:ffice" /><O:p></O:p>


Funny looking mould to me. I would like to see picture of the finish mould does it look like design?<O:p></O:p>
1. Leader pin on ejector side?<O:p></O:p>
2. Sliderstick out of base? What stop slider from falling out?<O:p></O:p>
3. Cut for slider ear is in mold plate?<O:p></O:p>
4. What does other half look like? Slider wedge lock in space?<O:p></O:p>
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Edited by: toped
 
hey Toped ... that part is called Lifter ... is taped and doesn't fall down.


for Zaki ... is a nice mould, and it seem's like you are working on budget. for low volume production.


cheers,


Adrian
 
Thanx Adrian for ur compliments, yeah this is a low production and low budgeted mold.


Hi Toped, ur compliments shows that u didnt see or design\make a lot of molds man. If I put another compitition for Back Body mold for Split Air condition, I think mayonly one or two guys can design that.
 
Zaki, This is a very easy split. I splt it in less than a hour. How long did it take you?


How does your slider work sticking out of the base? What holds slider in place when mould closed?


Can you show pictures of finished mould. Does it look like your design?


I think the tool shop had hardestjob on this mould.


cheers,





View attachment 2200
Edited by: toped
 
Zaki,





The mold design looks good, I have designed a lot of moulds over the years although nearly always in 2d. I assume the sliders are shown in the out position as the lifter is up. Toped: There are often cases when the leader pins are on the ejector side. eg if you are using a stripper plate, or if there is acore sticking up on this side which needs protection. The lock for the sliders in this case will I assume be provided by heel blocks screw on the fixed half or machined in the solid.


Zaki. Do you have any good tutorials for pro-mold (especially about split)
 
Hi Toped,


Nice work man, but ur mold is uncomplete, actually there is a lot of guys always asking for some tutorials and training stuff, thats why I am starting these kind of competitions, but unfortunately, very rear guys participating, most of u peoples just asking hows and whos?? do ur own effort man. If anybody can do any thing that means every body can do this, just make ur efforts and think it could be hard but not impossible. Toped inspired me, first he asking joke like questions but after he split the part.
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Keep it up Toped, and make it finish complete mold. Padraig, I have some tutorials for Proe 2001, if u need I can send u plz pm me ur email add.


View attachment 2223
 
Well, I've been watching this thread and I guess I have to jump in now. I know your all going to love me. Should I be all diplomatic and nice or should I just tell it like I see it?


Sorry guys but it looks to me like Toped might be the only real mold designer on this thread. I understand this might be a low budget mold but it still looks like a piece of junk and there is no draft on the model so it probably runs like crap.


1) I can see no reason to have put the leader pins in the ej half. 2) The leader pins are too short allowing the angle pins to engage the slides first. 3) There are no stop buttons behind the return pins. 4) The heal blocks are extreamily week and probably result in flash at the slides. 5) When using lifters you should put belleville washers or disk springs behind the return pins or use an early return system to seat the lifter before the mold closes. 6) Where are the slide retainers? 7)Where are the water lines.Etc. Etc. Etc.


I'm sorry to be hard on you Zaki, but what good would this group be if we are not honest. You either didn't read or understand what Toped wrote and you come off as quite the blow-hard.
 
Hy BMD


man I put only pic here, you didnot see the complete mold physically and assumes a lot. I had put each and evey thing in that mold. drafts are not essential like breath for plastic industry. go to my web site and check the part back body of split a/c, then tell me is it moldable or not, u know a lot of engineers challenge me that, the part is impossible to mold, but I had make the mold and it is successfully producing parts. I dont know how many molds u see in ur life. I had seen a millions from all over the world, and some molds from Hasco have inclined pins 12" longer then leader pins, what could u assume? Hasco dont know how to make a mold? If u think this, that means no body in the world knows about making molds!!!


I told earlier that no perfect man in any feild in this world including me. There are a lot of peoples who know better mold designing than me, but no actual designer can assume that what he knows is the last word.Some times u dont need a draft then what to do???


check moldability of this part!!!


View attachment 2232


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I am not blowed out by the complements of toped, but tell me some thing,


who defined the rule that leader pins must be installed on fix or cavity side?? Who defined the rule that sliders must be remains inside the block??


In our community it is normal practice to put leaders at punch side bcoz all profiles on cavity side normally are below the parting surface, and on punch side above the parting surface, so we put leaders at puch side to protect punch from accidentialy falling the mold or something on the mold.


I had put plunger type stop for sliders, and I put it in more than a hundred molds and find ok, even slider weight more than 50kg I stopped by this, so why I will increase my block size and increase the cost, even when I had a lot of competetion for cost in market. There is a lot of mold makers in china, taiwan, hong kong and in england, those dont put stop button behind the return pins in every mold. so what we say they dont know how to make a mold. I think u peoples are just finish ur studies and come to practical life. May be u have spend one year in feild but what ever we read in books is not enough to spend life, there is always some knowledge we learn other ways that teach us how to live successfully. Just see the things for learning a lesson from every one. It is easy to say that this is wrong but it is extremely hard to tell a right thing. U see, toped makes complements, and after looking on my split he even cant make copy of this, and u can see that is his splited core and cavity machinable?? specially parting surface, can u machine this?? if u can ok machine it then tell me
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. I am not angry with all of u, I am pleased that some one has enough courage to do this. but the last thing, no body put a good complete mold design here, including u BMD.
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Zaki,


You seem to think Hasco knows what they are doing. I agree and use Hasco bases regularly. You will notice stop buttons under the return pins is standard from Hasco and ordering a base without them would be a special... I wonder why. You say some molds from Hasco have angle pins 12" longer than the leader pins... Hasco doesn't design molds. They make bases and components. They will machine a base per a customers specifications though. So, these angle pins were designed by some hack who most likely should have used a hydraulic cylinder instead of angle pins if he needed that much slide travel.


I must admit, there is no way I have seen millions of molds from all over the world like you...if you have been in the industry 40 years you would have had to see over 136 molds per day, seven days a week, to have seen millions of molds.


You wrongly asume everyone else has no experience and has just finished their studies. I have been designing class 101 molds for 14 years and I built molds for 18 years prior to that.


You say nobody has put a good complete mold design here... Now someone has. This is a two cavity automatic unwind mold running Ultem 2300 with a mold temp. of 350 via cartridge heaters. It is a Hasco base with front loading inserts and unwind cores.


View attachment 2234


If you feel like it, split this part sothe mold splitregenerates with all family table members automatically. It should take about 2 hours.


2006-05-07_004324_Split_this.zip
 
Hi Bmd. I have to agree with zaki. I have seen and built numerous moulds where the guide pillars are shorter than the angle pins. sometimes its just not practical. maybe the part need to be able to fall down and the pillars would be in the way or contaminate the part with grease.


Not everybody uses buttons behind the ejector set. Before you say he should use beville washers behind the reture pins remember we only seen the moving half of the tool. I always put spring loaded pins in the fixed side opposite the return pins in this case which works the same way.
 
Padraig,


I know there are exceptions to all the rules. As you can see form Zaki's photo the leader pins wouldn't have to be that long and there are not spring loaded pins in the hot half. Although I think stop buttons should be under the return pins, I don't think not having them is the end of the world and I see some logic to him putting the leader pins in the ej half. I guess I would too if my tool room kept dropping molds and damaging the cores


I don't usually get into these threads but Zaki starts this off by asking who's got the muscles to design this tool and then shows off a very crude design, jumps all over Toped for reasonable questions, and then tells us all we don't have his vast experience and expertise. I suppose the competition he wants is to design the cheapest possible mold that would make a part. It would be a shame for new mold designers to emulate these practices... then again it might be good for the US mold making industry in the long run. I just wish Zaki hadn't turned this into an 'I'm better than you' thread with the first post.
 
Zaki and his friends


Apicture is worth a thousand words......and you get what you pay for. This form is proof that anyone can design and build a mould.But I don't know if I agree with your definition of a mould.Low volume and on a small budget it still has to make a good part.<?:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:eek:ffice:eek:ffice" /><O:p></O:p>


Take a look at the design BMD has displayed, and then take a closer look at Zaki's design. The picture
 
ok guys I admit it that I dont know how to design molds. and I will send my costumers to you. But the main thing why I put a model here?? guys always asking for parts and practice material. Thats why I put this thread here. I apologize for all of u who hurted by me accidentially. I am extremely sorry. If some body dont admit I am live, it is not a matter of my existense. After all my challenge is first. Create a mold for Back Body. and put here complete molds. Sorry toped, sorry BMD. all guys who fevour me here not my friends I even see here first time.


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Hy BMD,


I had splitted that part, but I didnt make any family table driven mold split, so if u teach me how to create it , I will be thanksfull of u. Tell me what material of that part and how much cavities u want. Its take only 15 minutes to split it by a single cavity. If u tell me, then I will make complete mold. But It will take some time, I am so bussy in a project now. put some practice material here for the people. And dont forget to split the back body. I apologize again.
 
Hi Joe


I glad to see such a kind of mold in post. u r the only guy who put his work here. Normally peoples are just critisising but not making a single effort.


Nice mold man, very nice and hard work
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